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A single faucet that drips once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons of water in a year, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. That wasted water shows up on your utility bill and puts extra strain on your pipes, your water heater, and your local water supply. Stopping the drip is one of the simplest water-saving steps a homeowner can take.

The encouraging news is that most faucet leaks are not caused by a cracked body or a failed fixture. They come from inexpensive internal parts that wear out with normal use: rubber washers, O-rings, seals, springs, and cartridges. Those parts cost a few dollars and can usually be replaced in under an hour.

This guide walks through the four main faucet designs, how to tell which one you have, and how to repair each type safely. Along the way, you will also learn how to keep the problem from coming back.

If you would rather hand the job to a professional, our network connects homeowners with licensed plumbers across the country. Call (888)239-9523 to reach a local provider.

Why It Matters

Why a Leaky Faucet Is Worth Fixing

Beyond the annoyance of the sound, a dripping faucet has real costs. Water waste is the most obvious one, but a leak also keeps a small area of the fixture constantly wet. That constant moisture can stain porcelain, corrode metal finishes, and soften the cabinet base or countertop below the sink.

Hard water makes the problem worse. As water evaporates around a slow leak, dissolved minerals are left behind and build up on the valve seat and moving parts. That scale acts like sandpaper, accelerating wear on seals and shortening the life of the faucet. You can learn more about how minerals affect fixtures in our guide to understanding hard water.

Fixing a leak early also protects the finish and the surrounding surfaces, and it prevents a small internal problem from turning into a fixture replacement.

Diagnosis

Identify Your Faucet Type

The repair method depends on the faucet design. Most homes have one of four types, and each has a different internal mechanism:

  • Compression faucet: Usually has two handles (one hot, one cold). Turning the handle compresses a rubber washer against a valve seat to stop the flow. Common in older homes and utility sinks.
  • Ball-type faucet: A single handle that moves a metal or plastic ball with slots to mix hot and cold. Common in older kitchens.
  • Cartridge faucet: A single handle that moves a replaceable cartridge inside the body. Very common in modern kitchens and baths.
  • Ceramic-disc faucet: A single handle that turns two ceramic discs to control flow and temperature. Smooth operation and long life, common in newer fixtures.

Note where the leak appears, because that points to the failed part. Water dripping from the spout usually means the sealing parts are worn. Water leaking around the base of the spout or under the handle often points to O-rings or packing. Water leaking from the handle itself usually means a worn stem or cartridge seal.

Tools and Parts

What You Will Need

Gather your tools before you start so you are not running to the hardware store mid-repair:

  • Adjustable wrench and a basin wrench for tight spaces
  • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, plus a set of Allen keys
  • A replacement repair kit matched to your faucet brand and model
  • Plumber's tape, a soft cloth, and white vinegar for mineral removal
  • A small bucket or towel to catch residual water
  • A flashlight for under-sink work

The single most helpful step is to identify the exact brand and model of your faucet. Look for a name or number stamped on the body, or remove the handle and check the cartridge. Repair kits are sold by brand and series, and matching the part prevents return trips and leaks caused by the wrong seal.

Always shut off the water before you begin. Most sinks have a pair of shut-off valves under the cabinet. Close them by turning clockwise, then open the faucet to release pressure and drain the line.

Compression Faucet

Repairing a Compression Faucet

Compression faucets are the oldest design and the easiest to understand. Here is the standard repair:

  • Shut off both supply valves and open the faucet to drain it.
  • Remove the handle by prying off the decorative cap and unscrewing the retaining screw.
  • Use a wrench to loosen the packing nut, then lift out the stem assembly.
  • Inspect the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem and replace it if it is flattened, cracked, or gritty.
  • Replace the O-ring or packing around the stem if water was leaking at the handle.
  • Look at the valve seat inside the faucet body. If it is rough or pitted, clean it or replace it, because a new washer will not seal against a damaged seat.
  • Reassemble in reverse order, open the supply valves slowly, and check for drips.

If the valve seat is deeply corroded or cannot be resurfaced with a seat wrench, the faucet body may be at the end of its life. In that case, replacing the faucet is often more reliable than repeated washer changes.

Cartridge and Disc

Repairing Cartridge and Ceramic Disc Faucets

Single-handle cartridge and ceramic-disc faucets are repaired by replacing the cartridge or the disc assembly rather than individual washers.

Cartridge Faucets

  • Turn off the water and drain the line.
  • Remove the handle by lifting the index cap and unscrewing the set screw, which is often an Allen screw.
  • Remove the retaining nut or clip that holds the cartridge in the body.
  • Pull the cartridge straight out with a pair of pliers. Note its orientation so the new one goes in the same way.
  • Take the old cartridge to the store to match it, or use the model number to order the correct replacement.
  • Install the new cartridge, reinstall the nut or clip, and replace the handle.

Ceramic-Disc Faucets

Ceramic-disc faucets rarely need more than a cleaning. Mineral grit between the discs can cause drips and rough operation. Turn off the water, remove the handle and retaining ring, and lift out the ceramic cartridge. Rinse the discs and soak them in white vinegar to dissolve scale. If the ceramic is chipped or cracked, replace the cartridge. Never force the discs, because ceramic is brittle.

Ball Type

Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet

Ball faucets, common in older kitchens, use a slotted ball, two rubber seats and springs, and a cam and packing assembly. Repair kits for these faucets are inexpensive and include all the wear parts.

  • Shut off the water and drain the faucet.
  • Remove the handle and the cap that covers the ball.
  • Lift out the cam, packing, and ball. Set them aside in order so you can reassemble correctly.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the two springs and rubber seats from the body.
  • Install the new springs and seats, then the new ball, cam, and packing from the kit.
  • Reassemble the handle and test. If it still drips, the valve body may be worn and the faucet should be replaced.

Work over a towel and keep the small parts in a bowl. Springs and seats are easy to lose down the drain, and losing one mid-repair means another store trip.

Prevention

Preventing Future Leaks

Once the faucet is repaired, a few habits will help it last longer:

  • Do not overtighten handles or shut-off valves. Excess force deforms seals and shortens their life.
  • Clean the aerator screen periodically to remove grit that can work its way into the valve.
  • Address hard water with a softener or filtration if scale builds up quickly on fixtures.
  • Drain and shut off outdoor faucets before the first freeze to prevent cracked valve bodies.
  • Test under-sink shut-off valves once a year so they will close when you need them.

If your water pressure seems unusually high, it can stress faucet seals. Our guide on improving water pressure explains how to check whether a pressure-reducing valve is needed.

When to Call

When to Call a Plumber

Most faucet repairs are manageable for a careful homeowner. Call a licensed plumber when:

  • The valve seat is badly corroded and cannot be cleaned or replaced
  • The faucet body is cracked or the supply line leaks inside the wall
  • An under-sink shut-off valve is seized and will not close
  • You are replacing a shower or tub valve, which often requires opening the wall
  • Water keeps appearing after the faucet repair, suggesting a hidden leak

A plumber can also confirm whether a leak you cannot see is the cause of a rising water bill. If you suspect a hidden problem, our article on detecting hidden water leaks is a helpful next step.

Fixing a leaky faucet is one of the most rewarding do-it-yourself plumbing jobs. With the right replacement parts and a little patience, you can stop the drip, lower your water use, and protect the finish of your fixture.

Faucet Still Dripping? Let a Pro Handle It

Our network of licensed plumbers can repair or replace any faucet quickly and correctly. Same-day appointments are available in most areas.

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